To step into Prague’s Municipal House (Obecni Dum), is in and of itself a feat of the imagination one can only dream of in the idle dreaming of childhood. One step alone inside the glorious Art Nouveau splendor that decorates the innards of Municipal House and one immediately recognizes having crossed an imaginary line from the ordinary into the extraordinary. Suddenly stepping out of time, we happily float into the realm of pure aesthetic beauty for beauty’s sake alone, inside this place of unrestrained inspiration and its reverence for all things lovely, a place unlike any other: The Restaurant Francouzska.

The history of the place where the Municipal House (Obecní dům) is situated today has been both interesting and intricate. The neighboring Powder Tower (Prašná brána), represents a unique remainder of the Gothic defence system of the Old Town of Prague, showing to this day the important business route that used to be there. The road aimed to the East of Prague, mainly serving the town of Kutná Hora with its abundance of silver and riches. That might be one of the reasons for King Wenceslas IV to establish here, not far from the town walls, his residence known as the Royal Court (Králův dvůr) at the end of the 14^th century.

The idea of erecting a representative community centre of the Royal Town of Prague at a place once occupied by the former Royal Court first emerged in the Memorial Deed, sent by the Burghers’ Guild to the Municipal Council in 1901. The supplication explained the need for developing a centre of Czech national and social life as a counterbalance to the then German casino and the German House situated in the street ‘Na příkopech’ (now Slovanský dům).

The final design produced by architects, Professor Antonín Balšánek and Osvald Polívka was approved on 10 December 1904. The Gala Opening of the building took pace on 22 November 1912.

It combines such styles as neo-Baroque, neo-Renaissance, as well as some western and oriental elements with what is known as the Czech Modern Style (Secession in German).

The majestic expression of the structure has been crowned with some extraordinary artistic decorations in whose production the majority of the significant personalities of the period had a hand such as painters Mikoláš Aleš, Alfons Mucha, Jan Preisler, Max Švabinský, František Ženíšek; sculptors Josef Mařatka, Josef Václav Myslbek, Karel Novák, and Čeněk Vosmík, to name but a few.

At the heart of this masterwork of the Belle Epoque, we can find is the centre of everything: Smetana Hall, which extends across several stories - Smetana Hall, is one of two main concert halls in Prague. This is home to the Czech National Symphony Orchestra. Here one can take in the greatest musical artists in the Czech Republic..... .The front of the building then house several representative halls: Lord Mayor’s Hall, Rieger Hall, Sladkovský Hall, Palacký Hall, and Grégr Hall.

“The building was erected for the purposes of housing cultivated social life, providing support for music and the fine arts, as well as offering dignified and purposefully equipped rooms for the high-toned presentation of the Czech public.” All of the above have been preserved and found longoing life at the Municipal House to this today.

The right wing of the Municipal House accommodates the world famous, French/Czech restaurant, The Francouzska Restaurant, which has every reason to be nick-named as the “The World’s Most Beautiful Modern Style Restaurant”.

As far as the historical and architectural details are concerned, the restaurant has retained its original lustre and design, in almost its original shape. The most interesting pieces of the furniture and equipment include the wooden booths for guests, the original tables and the floor, as well as the allegorical pictures by J. Wenig, for example : “Prague Welcoming Its Visitors”, “Hops Growing”, and “Grapevine Growing”. An original period wall cover has been discovered and renovated in the upper part of the restaurant. Also renovated have been the chandeliers and other lights by F. Anýž, and a period clock overlooking the entire scene.

If Smetana Hall represents Municipal Hall’s heart, then I proffer that its soul belongs entirely to the artists who currently reside in the kitchen and dining salon of The Restaurace Francouzska, The Restaurant Francouska.

The Francouzska is highly praised by gourmets and experts throughout the world for its incomparable cuisine and its unequalled romantic atmosphere. The restaurant can seat up to 320 guests for a formal seating as surely as they can host Gala-Events for up to 150 people or perhaps buffet style events for up to 350 diners.

The professional team of cooks led flawlessly and symphonically by Chef Jiří Král, Captain of the National Team of Cooks and Confectioners of the Czech Republic, comprises an ensemble that includes three other members from that august body of chefs as well. All these masters have gained their expertise and excellence working throughout the world's top culinary houses and themselves are recognized today as belonging to the top ranks of the highest gastronomical orders worldwide.

The Francouzská Restaurant is listed as one of the 5 best restaurants in Prague and in the Czech Republic by Grand Restaurant Guide.

Light-headed from the time travel in the ante-chambre, I am escorted as to a cloud by a smartly dressed, white-gloved waiter who signals a fine white linen table resting beside a huge glass window overlooking Republic Square. No sooner than I am seated than a glass of champagne is offered. Champagne was perfected during the Belle Epoque period and my sommelier today Mr. Milan Neradis, associate to has offered me an excellent welcome glass of Piper Heidsieck Brut and I thirstily quenched my passion without regrets as a gift from Chef Král arrives in the form of a lovely pink wrap of Prague Ham in a horseradish cream to awaken the senses further.

A colorful assortment of fresh, oven baked breads pipe alongside a salt-topped butter churned exclusively for the restaurant which arrives with a series of flavorful accompaniments: olive oil, a sun-dried tomato spread, a pesto butter. The breads are warm and moist and fragrant. A sample of each spread on a tear of bread is in order and opens the appetite warmly.

After a few seconds of taking in the magnificent high ceiling illuminated by numerous, sparkling period chandeliers, our double appetizers arrive. I am fortunate to be offered not only the chef's French inspirations but his passion for home sown classics of Czech cuisine in their more earthy tones and flavors.

Thus: A tuna marinated in orange oil rests on a salad of stewed tuna, walnut toast and young cucumber leaves. The dish is perfectly accented by my sommelier, Mr. Milan Nerad, whose elegant and swift readiness with his bottle of choice is always subtle but purely inspired as I am continually but imperceptibly refreshed and surprised by his fine elections in pairing the wine to the movement and flavor of the dishes.

For the sautéed rabbit kidneys with smoked bacon, shallots and a veal glacé, Mr. Nerad has wisely chosen a Drappier Carte d’Or Brut champagne whose character is ever so slightly fruitier but dry and light as it waltzes with the deep flavor of the kidneys and the tart delicious shallots in a fine unity of composition between liquid and solid.  It is a musical feeling one has in taking in the experience.

The Francouzska’s wine cellar is one of the finest in the entire country and boasts a vast array of choice, both Czech and International to pair with any of Mr. Král’s creations. Another member of the sommelier staff, Mr. Jakub Bratanek, has twice been honored the vice champion in a non official championship of the Czech Republic called "Bohemia Sekt Trophee" where the best sommeliers compete to be the best of the best. And no wonder.

Next up is a Chezch vintage, from a late harvest in 2005 is this delicate and nuanced Chardonnay barrique, produced at Dobra Vinice in the Czech Republic, this smooth and soft swimming delight accompanies the Pork knuckle terrine from the Sumava mountains (that is nothing but exquisite) with its soldierly flank of marinated chanterelles in a cinnamon syrup that stand guard beautifully at the foot of the great terrine.

For the French inspiration we are offered a Terrine of foie gras with slices of apple in a rum caramel with Macadam nuts that absolutely evaporates as the notes of a symphony would to the ceiling of a concert hall; so it is upon the roof of one’s own mouth, once more, perfectly paired, to a Veltínské zelené, an ice wine, vintage 2002, that caresses the remnants of flavor on the palette. The ice wine is crisp. Clean. It amplifies the foi gras and extends its message wonderfully.

To further warm us into willing subjugation we are brought two unique and delicious soups with very distinct characteristics. First a Cream of Pumpkin soup with courgette Julienne and drops of green pumpkin oil. It is succulent and smooth with a silky yet full-bodied purée and a delicious blend of contrasting vegetable values. Nothing to be sneered at and arriving close on the pumpkin's heels we are delivered a Cream of Jerusalem artichoke soup that is nothing short of having a preview glimpse of heaven here on earth, as divine as it could be with its gently sautéed forest mushrooms and the luciously baked duck foie gras that allied to the creamy soup forms an indescribable ecstasy on the tongue.

Chef Král knows when to deliver his final veronica in this culinary coup when his masterpieces, his main dishes, arrive to deliver unflinchingly exquisite evidence in rounding out his case.  We are given to a standing ovation for this remarkable performance.  Oh!  But wait, desert!

You will have to be pinching yourself to be certain you are yet among the land of mere mortals when Chef Král concludes this rhapsody of entrées with an offering from his Czech arsenal: a warm, soul-satisfying, young roasted vodnany duck, a supple, deboned leg and a succulent breast of duck, reposing with a warm exhalation of mild steam atop a succulent white and red wine cabbage with almond stuffing, bread and potato dumplings, with a Grand Cuvee Bize 2007, from the region of Biza, Chezch Republic.

And this is the part of the play wherein we are delivered our poignant dénouement in the form of desert.  This final raptue the choice of our Chef, a gifted artisan whose culinary skills obviously exists in a rare and exclusive order of expertise, craftsmanship and artistry.  Mr. Král is what one refers to simply as, a true artist.

As if not already surpassing our wildest expectations in exploring this cornucopia of modern dining, I am presented with the most exquisite Claw of Lobster with a Filet of Halibut, sitting like a vision upon a poached leek potato with a bear garlic and tiger prawns sauce. This indescribably delicious dish came with a late harvest 2008 Sauvignon, from the Barabáš winery, that is a legend among Sauvignons. It’s great

aroma with tones of peach and gooseberry, half-bodied in taste, was perfectly elegant with a lively acidity that complimented the lobster and prawns smoothly.

Preparing myself for the inevitable grand finalé of desert, I was not disappointed in the least with the angelic orders of the bar of Valrhona Chocolate with Grand Marnier liqueur and orange jelly nor the Mild Curd Cheese Dumplings on Plums in a honey rum with ginger ice cream and Pardubice bufler and forest fruit in a mint mousse served with a pungently rich and warm Sherry El Candado.  The theatrical masterpiece was concluded with a fragrant espresso for an encore.

The luncheon that would change my life forever, took well over an hour and a half of carefully orchestrated motions and actions and dances of perfection that reminded me of the experience of theatre.

I remain humbly indebted to the great artistry of Chef Král and his team of colleagues who created for me a meal of such uncommon characteristics and perfect execution.  No trip to Prague would be complete without dining at The Francouzska Restaurace, a singular and unforgettable journey that will take you on the wings of romance through an ageless realm of beauty, charm, distinction and the poetry of food such as is rarely experienced.  One cannot forget this palace of culinary and spiritual renovation.  Bravo Francouzska!  Bravo!