The Milford Track is a 33.5 mile trail through the magical landscape of  Fiordland National Park on the South Island of New Zealand. I hiked on  my own, carried a pack that was too heavy, and paused often along the  impressively beautiful but sometimes treacherous trail to repeat the  mantra: 'I will not be the person to get airlifted out of here.' On day  three, as I traversed the mountainside up to Mackinnon Pass, I was  engulfed by a dense fog rapidly moving from grey to blue to  orange.  I watched the sun explode through thick clouds to dominate the  morning sky.  The fog disintegrated and a new world materialized --  massive mountain peaks sprung up around me and a fogbow stretched across  the valley. Expect the unexpected on the Milford Track ... oh, and be careful  of the blood-thirsty sandflies.