- Posted September 8, 2012 by
This iReport is part of an assignment:
Travel snapshots: Volcanoes
I have spent the last several months all over Southern California for work at places like Laguna Beach, Dana Point, Newport Beach, Huntington Beach, Costa Mesa, and no I am not cool. However, in that time while working on projects I picked up surfing. Been doing it for about 4 months now and wow is that a culture that goes even passed a sport. To be in the surfing community you begin to inherit this cult feel and touch and it is a healthy one. This article talks about my observations and I admit some of them might not be entirely right, but they are full of perception.
It is not just about blonde hair…being a dude……having that cool California accent (however that stuff sure seems like it comes into play). It actually takes a sport and pushes a lifestyle that is full of free thinking and endless boundaries. We live in a world today that places boundaries on everything, but surfing eliminates all of that. In fact, you begin to open up your mind when you hit your first wave. You begin to embrace fear and not be scared when the ocean tackles you to the bottom. In fact, you never think or realize you are in the ocean where sharks lurk and other sea creatures that could be of danger. For the moment you hit a wave you just live and ride it until it ends. Perhaps that is how life goes when things are good…..just ride it until it ends. Who knows?
The folks at the beach at 5:30am in the surfing community come from all walks of life…..doctors, students, attorneys, sales dudes, bums, Brad Weisman, and really anyone who wants to walk on water. Everyone talks to everyone as long as you are in a wetsuit and in the water. Most friendly place on earth……even Mr. Rogers (if he was in a wetsuit) would be welcomed.
It is the only sport I have ever done that delivers a powerful emotion to the soul that is very positive. You feel good even on your worst day and wetsuits are rad. I love that I can be in water that is freezing and it doesn’t bother me. Perhaps it is that my body is numb and I am on the verge of hypothermia….kidding.
In the end surfing has some parallels to what we all witness in life. There are the highs and lows of life and tides that reside in the ocean. There is always someone better than you and few of us can become Laird Hamilton. Most of all, there is a freedom in life we can all grab and feel just like the never ending distance of the ocean waters. I really dig the waters and the freedom I share with others.
By Bradley D. Weisman
Approved by Edison Nation www.edisonnation.com
Art By Todd Marinovich www.toddmarinovich.com